9.17.2005

When foreign bars go wrong...

Tonight is the beginning of Chuseok, which for the layman is the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving where everyone visits their hometown to pay tribute to their ancestors, and for the beginning of the four-day weekend I decided to join a few teachers in hitting up Soul Train, one of the foreigner bars in the Pusan National University district. Now there's a part of me that's already decided that this place sucks; in the four times that I've been, only once did I feel that GI's hadn't swarmed there, and while I do my best to be a good American and keep my "Support Our Troops" ribbons in mind, most of the time I'm really turned off by the way military folks act. We've been through this, and if it makes me a piece of shit so be it.

Anyways, tonight, I made a bold move and made a request; Korea's anti-American enough where I was confident that they would have one (if not both) of the Kanye West records, and so with only the slightest degree of confidence did I request either "Slow Jamz" or "School Spirit" off of the College Dropout album; either song would get the dancefloor moving far more than the shit they were playing previously.

(Sidenote: Koreans seem to love Will Smith, and there's no awareness of just how ridiculous his musical career is at this point in the United States; this comes across as both pure and retarded)

When you request a song off of College Dropout, I think you go into it praying to God they don't play "Through the Wire", since that technically is the big single off of the album. Still, any sane DJ would understand that a song about getting your face fucked up in a car accident isn't exactly a dancefloor smash, and I guess I just hoped that the DJs here would trust me by my pasty skin and Western demeanor. I decided to rest against the pool table and wait out my request; Punjabi MC came on during this time, and at that point, I had nothing but faith in the DJ... surely he understood the power of "Slow Jamz".

Fuck that. The moment I heard Chaka Khan's chipmunk voice delivering the opening bars of "Through the Wire", I immediately envisioned the dance floor clearing out, people throwing their hands up in frustration, openly bitching about the lack of "Gettin' Jiggy with It". And everything happened almost as planned. After the second chorus, when Kanye Killa delivered a long diatribe about just how fucked up his face was, the DJ cut it short and segued into the Red Hot Chili Pepper's "Otherside"; to put it bluntly, it felt like my dick was ripped off. The foreigners who were there went crazy, and I quickly exited the dance floor to find the beer that I had set down. Maybe DJs throughout the world just don't understand just how much of a buzzkill "Through the Wire" is... any song that suggests that the MC looks like Tom Cruise in "Vanilla Sky" or Emmett Till just isn't going to work well for the crowd, and I don't see how the person in charge of the floor wouldn't understand that. Good single? Sure, it set the Kanye mythology into place, but if I want to dance, I want to hear something else off of the album.

Anyways, I didn't lambaste the DJ or anything... I didn't have the heart. Still, any possibility that I would do flying splits off of the wall was exhausted at that point, and now I'm here writing this post to you. I wish you all well, and Merry Chuseok.

9.15.2005

An important word of advice for the inexperienced teacher...

Any time when you ask younger students to use glue, you are potentially putting them into a cataclysmic situation from which only the craftiest minds can escape. Today, without even thinking, I asked my first grade students to create a popsicle-stick-attached school bus with which they could re-enact the thrilling lyrics of "The Wheels on the Bus". Little did I know that this would turn into a 20 minute debacle of glue-entrenched hands/fingers/cheeks/legs/etcetera etcetera. When an American kid gets glue on his/her hands, I'd imagine it becomes a badge of comedy, but in Korea, kids freak the fuck out-- cries of "TEACHER! TEACHER!" tore through my ears and as panic grew, I lost control of the situation. We ended up taking a mass trip to the boy's bathroom so that we could all rid ourselves of the glue, which seemed like it would have been more effective than sending them one at a time. A rousing rendition of "The Wheels on the Bus" awaited us when we arrived back in the classroom, and I sincerely believe that the bond that developed through this shared tragedy made our singing that much stronger. It wasn't quite Whitney-Houston-at-the-Super-Bowl good, but what ever could be?

Point of the story: don't trust young kids to be fully competent in the area of arts and crafts, and always be prepared for any chaos that might ensue when asking them to employ these skills. Also, "The Wheels on the Bus" is an effective tool for wasting time when you're only supposed to teach the words "Bus" and "Bus Driver" over a 40 minute period.

Other things of note today:

Mr. Lee (who I have taken to calling "General Lee") is often blasted for buying inedible pastries for the teachers at our hagwon, but I've developed a fondness for the cream puffs he selects. I actually made a dinner of them today, though I'm sure that will kill me if I choose to make it a habit.

Dongdongju is an amazing sleeping aid, far better than Nyquil or anything else you could find in the States. The combination of alcoholic content and rice make it a near-instant tranquilizer. I don't plan on making it a habit, but periodically it's nice to drink a little.

In one of my upper-level classes, I have a trio of students (Harry, Jane, and Sally) who help me carry all of my supplies back downstairs to the office. Today, one of them actually said, "Teacher is king!" and the other two smiled along. They hold doors for me. They erase the board for me. They chastise other students who are acting up for me. I'm really creeped out by all of this, but I'm not complaining.

That's all... it's a little late at this point.

9.13.2005

The Love Motel






I can't believe I forgot to post pictures of this place... here you are. Yeah, I already know that my photography skills are lacking.

Two highlights of riding in a subway in Busan...

1) On most of the trains you will find decent-sized LCD monitors broadcasting advertisements and cartoons. These would normally only make an interesting diversion if you had forgotten a book/Ipod, but there is one particular segment of programming that would tear away even the most steadfast:

DANCING SUBWAY

This program, in its own little way, feels made for me personally, since none of the Koreans laugh aloud and celebrate the way I do when it comes on the screen. On "Dancing Subway", a Korean teenager, his image superimposed several times over to make it seem like there's more than one of him, teaches the people of Busan how to "hiphop dance". I've only seen two episodes ("Hopping" and the superior "Cross-Step"), but I've already learned so much; for one thing, raising your fist over your head and bringing it forcefully across your chest is a great way to accentuate the normally-pedestrian cross-step. At some point, I really hope to gather up the courage to practice these steps in the middle of the train (as my friend Marie has done), but for right now, I'll just marvel at the premise of a dancing tutorial playing as subway entertainment.

(Next time I see it airing, I will try to get video footage of it on my camera. It's just that good.)

(Also, you may have noticed that this is the first time that I've used colored and bold lettering. I promise not to make this a habit.)

2) Along with the aforementioned pageantry, you are also assured of at least one sales pitch being delivered by a car-to-car salesman. Normally these men are war veterans, or at least that's what I've gathered from the number of them missing limbs, and their wares are normally entirely useless, my favorite being a strap-on knee brace. These attempts normally last about five minutes, with the salesman walking, limping, or hopping from one end of the subway car to the other, item in hand, all while demonstrating the dubious functionality of his item. The other day, one particular merchant went above and beyond; for what seemed like 15 minutes, he worked every possible angle a person possibly could when trying to sell a package of four "Reach" toothbrushes, yet never actually mimicked brushing his teeth. He brushed his arms, the outside of his cheeks, his shoes, but never his teeth. At one point, he stuck the toothbrush through a hole in an unopened package to show that it could be used as a handle as well. Never have I felt more compelled to buy a sub-par toothbrush, but I managed to restrain myself from giving in to my naive consumer instincts. While I understood nothing of what he said, it was easily one of the best spectacles that I've been witness to yet in Korea, although it loses a lot of its charm in this telling. Just trust me.

Ok... I'm school-bound at this point, but I've made a few promises regarding posts yet to be written. I swear to you that there will be photos of my apartment soon enough, and I still haven't talked about my first temple visit. These things will happen.

Regarding Ipods and my internet connection...

In order to fuel some discussion here, I wanted to ask a question for those of you who have Ipods: when on shuffle, do you notice that your machine almost always chooses the gayest songs available? I always prefer the randomness of shuffle compared to listening to full albums, since it forces some variety into my listening habits, but I'm getting a little tired of my Ipod always choosing Dusty Springfield and The Ronnettes from the plethora of options it has. At work, there's a side of me that's a little scared that someone will ask, "So what are you listening to?" and I will have to hide my head in shame. Don't ever tell that to Dusty though; oh wait, I guess you couldn't anymore anyways.

To the point: anyone else ever have this problem? Does your Ipod always choose the Echo and the Bunnymen ahead of AC/DC? Leonard Cohen (who, yes, was engaged to Rebecca De Mornay, but is still perceived as fruity by most) over Gang of Four? The Magnetic Fields over every band ever? Honestly, I kinda think my Ipod is gay, and I'm wondering whether or not that makes it returnable under the warranty.

Also, I was unable to update last night because of my faulty internet connection. Before I came here, I had read much ballyhoo over the speedy connections in SoKo, but so far, I honestly couldn't tell you the difference. Then again, the only thing I've downloaded has been an Itunes update.

9.12.2005

AIM

Just to keep you informed, I'm now frequently on AOL Instant Messenger under the name "OliverOptic2004", as well as Yahoo Messenger as "jmeyerriecks". If willing, maybe you should add me to your long list of friends. Booyah?

9.11.2005

Restaurant signage...






A real brief precursor to a longer post on Sunday's travels. Korea has a number of eateries that specialize in pork, chicken, and so on, and for each one, it's almost mandatory that they have a gloriously absurd cartoon mascot. My friend Marie is currently considering starting a blog exclusively dedicated to these characters (a request I made actually), but for right now, I just wanted to provide you with some examples:

One week in, my impressions on working at (hagwon's name withheld)...

To start, I'm not sure how candid I can be about my workplace, given the giant clause in my contract that says, "Don't disclose shit or you're out of a job." Somehow or another, I doubt that a lowly blog such as mine will cross the bigwigs' paths, but I'm still using some discretion here.

You take the good:

Having worked for three years at a school where the possibility always existed that I might knock out (or to be more realistic, get knocked out by) a student, the classroom environment here is a Godsend. Out of my 12 classes, I can only think of two that seem remotely uncontrolled, and even in those situations, a little discipline goes a long way; for example, students who continually speak in Korean (yes, a punishable offense) are often asked to hold both hands up for an undisclosed period of time, and to my surprise, this actually works as an effective punishment technique. The worst thing I've had to do to any student yet is make him stand outside, and on coming back in, he was as close to angelic as I've seen a seven year-old.

Many teachers seem to complain about the perceivable jadedness of older students--the school day for a Korean teenager would knock an American on his/her ass, and there's a ridiculous amount of pressure to get a good score on the TOEIC exams-- but from my experience so far, as long as you are enthusiastic and go out of your way to put them into speaking situations, they're wonderful. I actually had a five minute discussion with a class today about whether or not Goofy (the Disney character) was a dog, and while in an American classroom this would have been a nice diversion, in a Korean classroom it's an incredible challenge for these kids to navigate the phraseology of such things... and no, this was not a conversation that I initiated-- the kids know their Disney here. Right now, my favorite classes, for the most part, are the ones with the older students.

The atmosphere in the office is friendly so far, although some foreign teachers have complained about the smiling underhandedness of the two head teachers. Unsurprisingly, the Korean teachers are all female, all but one still living at home, and while I have learned to effectively ignore hotness in the workplace, they're all gorgeous and fashionable. They're also overworked, especially compared to us lazy foreign teachers; one night last week I went into (hagwon's name withheld) after school at around 11:00 to check my email (I was still bound to the love motel), since most of them were still there working away. While I feel tremendous guilt knowing that they have to work what seems like double our hours, there's nothing I could do to help them, with all of the paperwork being in Korean and all. Despite the inequalities, each of them has been incredibly helpful getting me accustomed to the way things are done at (hagwon's name withheld).

There are many other things that have made me happy with the choice to work here, but I'm not going to let myself get carried away with this email... I'm waking up early tomorrow to go to Beomeosa, a temple/tourist trap, for my day off. Now the negatives...

Alright, I was virtually shoved into the six-day-a-week work week, thanks to my recruiter continually assuring me that "You're never going to find a job where you don't work on Saturdays." That's bullshit, and unfortunately I played along; even at my school, one teacher managed to negotiate a contract with a full weekend of Saturday and Sunday, and two other teachers have Tuesdays and Thursdays off. Any major travelling that I wanted to do is simply limited to the few holidays that I have off; I guess the flipside of the coin is that living in Korea is essentially a vacation in itself, and Busan is certainly capable of delivering many a Sunday's worth of entertainment and sightseeing.

Another downside to my schedule: on a daily basis, my hours are 3:00 to 8:55, making it difficult to do anything at night aside from going out to drink. I was looking at signing up for Muay Thai classes, and that essentially fell through because of these hours, unless I choose to take classes with people 15 years younger than me. The movie theaters that I've found normally have their last showings just a little bit out of my range, although a new multiplex will be going up a few blocks from my school in the next month or so. Going into this, not having to work until the mid-afternoon seemed like a pretty sweet deal, but now that I'm here, I'm seeing that it limits me in many ways. Flipside: at least I'm not working a split-shift, and now I have some really solid hangover insurance.

There are a few entirely pointless things that new teachers have to do in order to please the bureaucracy, the most annoying being lesson plans. I know you're probably thinking that lesson plans sound like a reasonable request, especially considering that most incoming foreign teachers have never actually taught a class in their lives; I would have thought this, too, but it's clearly busy work with absolutely zero functionality in the classroom. In writing a plan for a class where I had to teach fruits and vegetables, I had to list each individual word that I would be teaching the students; rather than summarizing it all as "fruit and vegetable-related vocab", I had to list all 50 words, only to see this "plan" filed away never to be seen again once I handed it in. I've yet to use any of these plans in the classroom, and you're almost discouraged to do so; I had to specially request that my plans be given back to me after the head teacher looks through them, and from his reaction, I think this was one of the first times he had heard this request. Most of the time I just copy the required information directly from whatever book I'm teaching's Teacher's Guide. These plans normally take me about an hour a day, and thankfully I only have to do them for the first three months.

Small complaint: I have to fill out a fuckin' request form to get a red pen. The first one given to me started leaking the other day, so I asked one of the head teachers whether I could have a new one; she pointed towards the blank request forms on the bulletin board. I filled it out, gave it to her, and immediately afterwards, she gave me a red pen. Understand that I've never really worked in an office in my life: things like this are new to me, although like everyone else, I've seen "Office Space" enough to know that this is not an epidemic exclusive to Korea. Still annoying.

All in all, considering the stories I've heard about hagwons, I think I lucked out; none of the veteran foreign teachers have complaints that I'd consider serious, and my hagwon is financially stable enough that I'll never have to worry about missed paychecks or anything... I think it's only logical to cross your fingers when saying the latter though.

The next update will surely include photographic evidence of my visit to Beomeosa, just so I can show you that I'm cultured and all... I swear I am.