




This past weekend, Marie and I woke early in the morning so we could take part in the Pusan International Film Festival, celebrating its 10th year of turning the city's movie theaters into a potential trampling disaster. While not Cannes or Sundance, the PIFF is definitely considered to be the best film festival in Korea (potentially all of Asia), and the people here take great pride in it. The only festival I've ever been to was the St. Louis International Film Festival, and I can easily say that this trumped it. Where to begin:
The festival is held in two separate areas of Pusan: Nampodong (a very cosmopolitan downtown area where you'll find both expensive Western stores and street vendors selling wares at negotiable prices) and Haeundae (home to the most popular beachfront in Pusan, and while not quite as vibrant as Nampodong, still a lively area, especially if you like looking at ritzy hotels).
(Reason to pause: I just wrote an entire post for this and came back to find it erased. I'm upset.)
We arrived at Nampodong around 10:00 in the morning, and already the streets were lined wall-to-wall (didn't I tell you that the streets have walls here!?) with people. Awe-inspiring was that the ratio of Koreans to foreigners was less than 1000 to 1, truly justifying the "International" part of the festival's moniker. Despite the early arrival time, the movies that we had circled in my guide had already sold out; for any of you who would plan on going to the PIFF, the easiest way to assure yourself that this won't happen is to buy tickets online, but 10% of the theater's seats are available for purchase the day of the show, a route that I chose to take once but won't again. Still, we managed to get two tickets to the 5:00 showing of
"Manderlay", the latest slice of pretensious hooha from Lars Von Trier.
This gave us several hours to waste, so waste we did...
For those recently removed from pay day, Nampodong can be a callous succubus, with 1000 won Che Guevara socks and adorable Engrish stationery waiting to reel you in at any given footstep. Those of you who have been kind to me throughout the years can expect a sweet bounty of novelty gifts in the next couple of weeks. While the Che socks are glorious, these things are a-dime-a-dozen among the street vendors, and I bought several varieties to win friends and influence people; the second and third best feature
Astroboy (known as Mighty Atom in Korea) and a pair of jellybeans sharing a heart with the words "I Lub U" emblazoned above respectively. One of you-- I haven't decided who yet--will get a set of five soju glasses that each depict a different scene of ancient Korean lovemaking, a gift so good that I almost want to be a selfish bastard and keep it for myself. Oh, and I did buy some things for moi, of course; to be specific, I now own a sharp sweater featuring a penguin emblem, two Engrish t-shirts that Marie bought duplicates of so that we could "match", an authentic
Kart Rider alarm clock, and some incense that I bought from a guy who I thought was a strict Buddhist until I saw that he was playing Starcraft behind the counter. He runs this great shop right on the base of Yongdusan; Marie believes he has the best incense deals in Pusan, and I'm not one to argue.
By the time we needed to be at
Lotte Cinema, I had spent around 100,000 won ($100).
Oh... we also hit up some video arcades. Pictures and descriptions to come.
Something I want to say before I talk about the theater and the movie: even when the streets are so crowded that you feel part of an amorphous humanoid blob, some dudes still have the gall to try to drive their motor scooters (and even cars) through it all. Walking in Pusan is like living "The French Connection" each and every day. No matter where I am, it's always in the back of my mind that at any moment a KIA is going to veer onto the sidewalk, take out some fruit stands, and send hordes of people diving out of the way. One of my co-workers refers to Korean traffic laws as "suggestions", which I've found to be an apt description.
The Lotte Cinema is different from any other movie theater I've been to, but that's not surprising. For one thing, seats are assigned, meaning that you don't have to go into the theater 30 minutes ahead of time to be assured that you won't be craning your neck the whole movie. Also, whereas American movie theaters are large in terms of length and width, Lotte is just fuckin' tall. To get to our theater, we had to go up eight floors in an elevator, and then another one on an escalator. The lobby felt like an airport waiting area and didn't have the neon sheen that I was expecting. The concession stand was also a little reserved, and rather than candy, it sold prawn chips, a close cousin to the shrimp chips that Marie swears by but that I can't stand. Popcorn came in bags with the triumphant slogan "Power Movie, Power Feeling!" For the film festival, you need to be at your movie on time or else you won't be allowed to enter, so we got to hang out here for a solid 30 minutes before showtime.
I don't know if this was standard or not, but the theater was among the largest I've ever been in. Massive screen, what looked like at least 50 rows of seats... I was definitely not disappointed, although I'm not sure if "Manderlay" was the ideal movie to be seeing on this monstrosity. Because of our tardiness, Marie and I were actually assigned to sit in the third row, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that even the front rows are distanced quite a bit from the screen, meaning I wouldn't have to twist my neck like I was at a tennis match. The only thing that disappointed me was that the theater didn't have a proper sound system, only two large amplifiers in front of the screen; this might have something to do with the film festival's print (it's not like a Lars Von Trier film requires THX or anything) though.
I had a lot more to say about "Manderlay" earlier in the week, but I'm not sure how informed a reaction I can muster right now. Not having seen its prequel, "Dogville", I can only discuss it as an individual film, and while it sucks getting preached to about race in America from a Dane, there was some truth to it. Things I liked:
Bryce Dallas Howard... not for her acting, but because I can now say that I've seen Ron Howard's daughter nude. If that's not reason to brag, I don't know what is.
Danny Glover... again, not for his acting, but because he delivered every line in his weary Murtaugh voice. If Lars had a sense of humor, he would have had him say, "I'm getting too old for this" at least once.
The end credits... great song choice ("Young Americans") that at least tied things up with a humorous bow, and the montage themed around the mistreatment of blacks in America effectively pissed me off.
The theatrical storytelling device... Just like with Dogme, Von Trier has come up with a genuinely unique and interesting way of delivering a narrative, and I never felt like it was gimmicky.
Things I didn't like:
The melodramatic screenplay... I get that it's an allegory or whatever, but the few moments of naturalism stand out as the best in the movie. Bryce Howard's line delivery makes me feel like I'm being force-fed an anti-American shit sandwich, and this is coming from a guy who often has mixed feelings about the land o' the free.
Chloe Sevigny... she doesn't do anything in this movie. Why is she even in it? I know she was in "Dogville", but still... this was a role that they could have hired an extra to play.
Alright... I have to watch the end of the Cardinals game and cook up some lunch. It's nice to be back here.